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weld the back side first, before the head is welded to the tank, grind the carbide from the front, install the head and finish the welds from the front. thats what we do with our tanks. (cryogenics)

i also suggest using 308L filler. this is a better match for 304L.

its normal for the end to ball up, nothing to worry about

you want your tungsten to ball up on the end when welding aluminum

why would u go stainless instead of aluminum?

how are you supposed to hold your filler and that?

yes i can use google, but i figured since you in alberta, you have a source close to home.

these arnt ment to be dry like the 7018's. they need around 3-5% moisture for them to work good.

where would you get this?

if there mandrel bent that should not happen. when tube is crush bent, then the bend does reduce in diamater. thats usually why mandrel bent stuff is more expensive

thats what lift arc is for

rod u do relise there is an edit post button so u dont have alll these little posts. REDBEARD, if you have too much argon it can cause turbulence and actually suck in air instead of shielding,...

there is no up/down slope when u are in 2t mode. your foot pedel controls the amperage. if you set your machine at 50, then the pedal has the range of 0-50, if you turn it all the way up to 150, then...

http://www.vibrantperformance.com/main.php... little pricy, but quality is there

If ur running dcen then thats your prob. Stick welding is usualy done in dcep, so your ground is negitive and stinger is positive. Also turn your arc force up to around 30-40, this will help u not to...

looks like your just doing "spot" welds, and not really dragging a weld puddle. looks like some scrap material, and you didnt butt the two flat edges together, telling me your not concerned with how...

so i basically finished it all up today. yesturday i made the pipes, cut my bumper, welded the pipes on. today i finished the look by making some "tips" and final positioning. the only thing thats...

If your going to use stainless on your header area, i suggest using 321L stainless not 304L just because it withstands the heat better and its critical temp it higher.
Fitup for the wye wasent that...

started working on my exhaust last night and today, should have most of it done tommorrow. made out of 2.5" .065" wall 304L ss tubing. i started out by taking off the stock muffler, removing the...

as performance said with 6010, it gets penetration, more then 7018.. then 7018 on top of that for strength and looks. since there is no welding procedure like you said, it really boils down to...

id stick everything as well, just id use 1/8" 6010 root, and 3/32 7018 fill/cap.

red deer. just wondering cause im about to build my exhaust. 2.5" x .065" 304L for my lancer, and want to start doing more stuff like that as well for other people/

what would you charge for somethign like that if you dont mind me asking.

+1 for this. i HATED that dam thing.

you said u were using 5P 6010, but all the 6010 i burn doesent have a red coating, its grey. since your doing an uphill weld, your rod angle should be almost perpendicular to the plate. if you have...